The fact that you're getting 'bleed over' from one function to the other indicates a ground problem. Check all the ground connection on the plug that joins the camper and the truck, and the harness on the truck that connects to the tow package wiring. Somewhere you have a loose ground connection.
I'll link you to a help article about troubleshooting trailer wiring. The article is about towed trailers, but the same advice outlined in the article would hold true for a truck bed camper like yours. view full answer...
Does the flat bed use combined brake lights/turn signals or does it have separate amber turn signals? The 2006 Chevy trucks used a separate system with brake and turn signals on separate wires. If the flat bed has them combined then that would be the issue. You would have to take the separate signals from the truck combine them and then it would work. To do that you would need a converter, # RM-732.
On this converter the white wire grounds to the frame the red wire is for brake lights,... view full answer...
If you're not getting trailer brakes with the brake pedal, use a circuit tester like # PTW2993 on the red wire exiting the rear of the brake controller. That circuit should go hot with the brake pedal applied. If you're not getting power on that wire, you likely have a blown fuse on the 3rd stop lamp circuit. It's possible when you removed the original bed, something got shorted and blew the fuse.
As far as the vehicle taillights go, they should be wired into the original circuited that... view full answer...
Sounds like the issue is on the wiring of the trailer. Specifically the running light circuit. The wiring from the truck is making it to the trailer but the trailer is unable to power all of the running lights. I'd go over the wiring to all of the clearance lights and also make sure they are grounding properly.
I attached a help article on troubleshooting trailer wiring for you to check out as well. view full answer...
Hyperflashing is typically a problem with LED lights being installed on a vehicle that had incandescent bulbs.
If that is the case you will need to install load resistors like part # ALEDRST2B on all of the taillights on the flat bed. view full answer...
Most of the time this type of problem is a corrosion issue on the pins of the connectors. First check the blades of the 7-way of the # 50-97-410-010 and clean as needed and then try unplugging the connections the adapter makes to install and clean them as well. Most likely you'll find some corrosion that once cleaned up will fix the running light circuit. view full answer...
I recently had a similar problem with the LED lights on my flatbed that I have on my 2000 Dodge 3500, except all of the tail lights on the left side of my bed were dim. My issue was a poor ground connection and I would suspect that would be your issue as well. I recommend inspecting all of the ground locations as well as the ground wires coming from each of the lights. Look for loose connections or pinched wires.
If your lights use the plug-in style pigtail harnesses (see photo), look... view full answer...
The Curt 7-Way Trailer Adapter # C57003 is designed to be used on Volkswagens, Audis, and Porsches but we have seen some success on other vehicle makes.
I can't say for sure but it might solve your issue. The adapter uses load resistors which creates more power draw. Another possible solution is to install load resistors # DI34ZR. view full answer...
It does sound like the Load Resistor Kit # DI34ZR will fix your bulb out issue on your 2018 Ram 3500 with a flat bed. Each resistor mounts in line just before the led tail light. This adds resistance to the wiring which will give the illusion the LED bulb is pulling more power similar to a incandescent light bulb. If your brake lights are separate from the turn signal you may need additional resistors for the separate brake lights as well if they are also causing a bulb out error.
As far... view full answer...
Since the truck works with any other trailer just fine the issue must be on the trailer. Check its connector and make sure it is clean and free of corrosion inside where the wires attach and outside on the pins.
It could also be a ground issue. Ground problems normally show up when there is more draw on a system such as when you have the running lights on and then use another function like a turn signal or brake light but can show up any time.
The main connector grounds should be attached... view full answer...
Since the in-bed 7-Way is working on your 2017 GMC Sierra 3500 it sounds like you need to simply replace the 7-Way at your bumper. If the bumper 7-Way had a bad ground it would be causing more issues than just the running lights to not work.
You can try locating the ground near your bumper and just make sure it's secured to a clean, bare-metal surface just to make sure, but you should just need to replace your OEM connector with the Hopkins # HM40975 and that will take care of your issue! view full answer...
If you are certain that the ground on the truck is the problem then what you can do is run a new ground from the back of the trailer connector directly to a clean, bare metal surface on the truck frame. Make sure the new location is free of corrosion, paint, and undercoating.
If you continue to have issues then make sure the truck and trailer side connectors are both clean and free of corrosion inside where the wires attach and on the pins.
The light grounds should also be attached... view full answer...
Tilt trailers can sometimes create grounding issues because of how the bed attaches to the frame. Since the ball mount seems to be making a difference that also makes me think it's a ground problem since sometimes on trailers with bad ground harnesses they can still ground through the hitch if available. What you will want to do is try running a jumper ground wire from the lights back to the ground circuit of the trailer harness. I can almost guarantee that's going to fix the problem. view full answer...
You will have to make sure that the alternate ground wire on the Hopkins in-bed trailer connector, # 41157, is attached to a clean bare metal surface on the truck frame. If it is not then the harness will not work correctly. You can also try different grounding locations that could give you different results.
If everything is installed correctly and you have a strong ground location, unplug the trailer and use a circuit tester, such as # 3808, to test the connector while someone sits in... view full answer...
It sounds like the tow package running light fuse is blown on your 2012 Ram 3500. On the 2012 Ram there is a trailer running light fuse in the fuse panel under the hood in location J14. Since none of the connectors on the truck have power to that circuit and the lights work fine on the trailer when connected to a different vehicle that indicates a fuse as the most likely culprit. view full answer...
It very well could be a dirty connection or a short somewhere on the circuit. I would start at the back of the connector in the bed of your truck checking it for corrosion and then trace the circuit back checking for cut or exposed wire and fix as necessary.
I do think its most likely corrosion either on the front of the connector, the back of the connector or where it connects to the 7-way at the bumper.
I attached an FAQ article on trailer wiring that you might find informative also. view full answer...
I would need to know the year, make, and model of the truck and if it has a factory trailer wiring connector or an aftermarket one. And if it is aftermarket, is it connected in anyway to the tail light wiring on the truck, either through connectors or hardwired.
What could be happening is that the trailer lights are overdrawing power causing the truck lights to not work. Converting the trailer to LED lights would reduce the current draw if that is indeed the problem.
It could also be... view full answer...
The trailer connector located in the truck bed is typically daisy chained together by plugging inline between the factory harness and the 7-way at the rear bumper. If this connection isn't secure or if moisture has gotten into the connection and caused the connections to corrode, it would explain the problem you're having. This is the most likely culprit if the fuse in location # 29 in the main fuse box hasn't blown. view full answer...
Since your incandescent tester seems to work just fine, it appears that individual function at your trailer connector works fine. There could be a short in the connector that is only when there are multiple pins connected. Since this is the case with multiple trailers, I would make sure your connections are cleaned up really nice and then if you still have an issue I recommend swapping your connector for a new one like the Replacement Multi-Tow 7-Way & 4 Pole Trailer Connector # 74682... view full answer...
The first thing we need to figure out is if the problem exists on the truck or trailer. To do this you will need a circuit tester such as # PTW2993 or a meter if you have one. Disconnect the trailer from the truck and have someone sit in the truck to operate the running lights while you test the connector at the back of the truck. The running light circuit should be the pin in the 1 o'clock position on a vehicle side 7-Way connector.
If there is power on that pin, then the issue is on... view full answer...
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